Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
